Here is a fairly basic backpack for those outdoor types who wouldn’t mind making their own gear and go through the trouble of putting their hands and feet to work with scissors and a sewing machine.

This actually came into being after I constructed the “van Peski” pack or the GVP G4 pack posted at a site some time ago. And yeah, I was able to download a copy of the instructions and diagrams.

Unfortunately, the site is currently unavailable and I believe the authors are updating and rewriting the instructions.

I had great success with the van Peski pack project, in fact I have already made three of them with each subsequent model sporting improvements in comfort and utility.

The next step for me was to conceive of a pack similar to the former but smaller in size good for up to 3 days max of lightweight backpacking and one that has a lid cum pocket to cover and secure the top opening.

Yes, I know that this addition will add weight but a hiker friend of mine insisted of putting a lid on the van Peski-type of pack.

He actually liked my homemade GVP pack that he asked me to build one for him but with the lid on it. I also adopted the way a ground pad is attached to the pack, which also serves as the frame.

Ditto for the front no-see-um mesh pocket.

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Some of the major innovations I added were primarily focused on the hipbelt area. They are the load-transfering system LTF and the ability of the webbing hipbelt to be completely extricated from the pack.

The LAB has a capacity of about cu in which is ideal for a sub multi-day lightweight backpacking trip. Because of its limited main packbag capacity, one will be encouraged to bring just the most essential items.

However, it also has an extended volume of cu in cu in for the extension collar and cu in for the front mesh pocket. This fully-extended mode, you’ll be using the cu in volume offered by the extension collar.

It has a tapered profile which is wider at the base to accomodate space-consuming sleeping bags and provides a nice, cushy area that stradles the user’s sacrum or hip area.

Black lace panel cut out body x ray

An innovative feature of this pack is that it incorporates a set of snugger straps at the hipbelt region. The hipbelt webbing is not sewn to the bottom side seams but runs through a sleeve at the sacrum area of the pack.

To achieve an effective and comfortable load-transferring system LTSone just has to clip the one-piece webbing hipbelt around the hips just as you would wear a normal belt and cinch tight.

To activate the LTS, just cinch the snugger straps forward to transfer the load to your sacrum. This is actually the system behind many of today’s internal frame packs.

I just reduced it to the most rudimentary layout possible such that it is still effective. Another plus for this design is that it enables the user to remove the hipbelt webbing entirely – perfect for those occassions that require us to travel really light that a hipbelt is not needed at all.

To help us organize our gear there are two zippered pockets sewn on the lid. One is made from mesh and the other one is of solid fabric. There’s a wide no-see-um mesh pocket at the front which is great for drying wet or soggy items while trekking without having to worry that it’ll drop on the trail unnoticed.

The compression system was adopted from packs of the old days where a lace system was used to control the load. Some use it to lash additional gear.

Others find multiple uses for the “lace” i. I personally like how it actually compresses the load together to form a nice, lithe shape. It provides more effective compression for a given area compared to the normal horizontal strap system.

Insert pad into sleeve. Black lace panel cut out body x ray Cut the reinforcement for the bottom shoulder straps from d honeycomb polyester nylon since the shoulder strap top and bottom parts alike receive a lot of stress during use, I recommend at least a moderate-weight fabric, d or more, for use in these areas as shown in figure 4 2 pcs.

It is adjusted by a single cordlock attached to the ends of the lace after it has been threaded through the ear loops at the pack seams.

The shoulder straps are constructed in an S-shaped curved fashion to follow the contours of the user’s torso. For simplicity, you may just make a straight pair recommended for the beginner.

There is also an adjustable attachment option for a sternum strap to further secure the pack load to your body and prevent shoulder strap slippage during off trail hikes.

The Masked Singer raked in 6. Dresses for Women, Mini Club Dresses different sizes, designs, cuts Refer to figure 12 for a graphic representation.

The parts for the bottom shoulder strap reinforcement and webbing hipbelt are also included. Cut the no-see-um mesh backpad holders 2 pcs.

We’re going to use the gg as an edging for the former. I find it helpful if you crease first the middle line running along the ribbon before you sew it to the edge of the mesh.

Black lace panel cut out body x ray marcus online

This way, it will come out neat and straight. Refer to photo 2. Sew mesh backpad holders onto back panel as shown in photo 3.

Their respective placements are given in figure 2.

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It is best to draw them out with tailor’s chalk. After sewing, cut off excess mesh panel ends and sear to prevent raveling. Cut the webbing hipbelt sleeve from d nylon packcloth as shown in figure 3.

Sew sleeve on its designated place on the lower part of the back panel. Make sure it is centered and that it is sewn at the top and bottom edges only.

Make several stitch passes per sleeve edge. Leave the sides unsewn i. Cut the reinforcement for the bottom shoulder straps from d honeycomb polyester nylon since the shoulder strap top and bottom parts alike receive a lot of stress during use, I recommend at least a moderate-weight fabric, d or more, for use in these areas as shown in figure 4 2 pcs.

Fold crosswise and sew short, square edges in place.

Refer to the bigger, triangular assembly at photo 4. Next, cut 2 pcs. Sew webbing into triangular reinforcement assembly by folding the latter into two and inserting the former into the open slit.

Then sew around edges and reinforce the sandwiched webbing by making several passes over it. Cut of the very, very short, excess end of the webbing and sear refer to the same photo.

Get out and use your pack. Quick View. Black lace panel cut out body x ray Red and black sexy satin and spandex corset top with a sexy zipper front, pretty Venice trim at top and bottom and a form fitting, comfortable spandex back. To activate the LTS, just cinch the snugger straps forward to transfer the load to your sacrum.

Sew reinforced, bottom shoulder strap assembly onto its proper location at the bottom side portions of the back panel with the bottom tip apex of the assembly level with the bottom edge of the hipbelt sleeve.

Make 2 sets for both sides of the hipbelt. Then sew each over the triangular bottom shoulder strap assembly by positioning it level with the middle portion of the hipbelt sleeve.

Refer to photo 5. To keep the backpad really in place even though the pack isn’t fullespecially at the bottom portion, sew vertical stitch lines about 1″ from the ends of the bottom mesh backpad holder.

Refer to photo 6 shown by red pointer. Construct the webbing hip belt assembly from your choice of hip belt width. For the snugger strap connection, cut 2 pcs.

To produce a properly fitting assembly, sew first an end of the hip belt webbing to the non-pronged side of the SR buckle. Afterwards, thread the other end through the pronged side.

Now you have a loop connected by the SR buckle. Unclip SR and wear around hips sacrum area and clip shut. Tighten belt by pulling the webbing end emanating from the pronged side.

Center SR buckle in front and mark with chalk on the webbing 2″ forward from where your iliac crests protrude do this on a per side basis.

Refer to photo 7 for the parts layout. The padding for the shoulder strap is actually a laminate of 10 mm thick EWA open-cell foam and yes, it’s the white pad you see in the photos and 2 mm thick closed-cell foam yellowwhich is stiffer and denser.

Remember to cut the components for the shoulder strap in mirror image of one another L and R portions. Cut the pads according to figure 7 and laminate the corresponding pieces together with quick drying contact cement or any other appropriate adhesive.

Let it dry completely refer to photo 8; it is the laminated, yellow R shoulder pad at the rear portion of the machine. Cut the shoulder pad sleeve from two types of material figure 8.

28.02.2020 – The boys will now go head-to-head with the girls in Sunday’s live finale. He actually liked my homemade GVP pack that he asked me to build one for him but with the lid on it. Select options. The yellow stitch line can you see it? The enticing set includes a beautiful corset with contrasting lace trim and criss cross detail down the front and a matching thong panty with bow front detail.

The inner side the fabric next to your body upon shouldering the pack is cut from d coated nylon while the other side where the violet strap is attached is cut from d honeycomb fabric.

Tip: cut the outer side according to the pattern while for the inner side, cut a big enough fabric panel where the outline of the former is drawn.

Sew violet strap onto outer side 4ood honeycomb of shoulder strap sleeve according to photo 9 at the straight end area only.

Assemble and sew sternum strap adjusters also shown in the same photo. Sew the sleeves with the corresponding panels together inside out.

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Afterwards cut off excess inside fabric along the outline of the outside fabric of sleeve photo 8. Turn sleeve inside out. Now you’re ready to insert the pad laminate with the stiff side closed-cell foam of the pad adjacent with the honeycomb side of the fabric sleeve.

But first, stitch the rounded end of the sleeve photo 10 to form the flap where the LL buckle will be attached. Insert pad into sleeve.

It may help if you wet the pad first lightly with water to make insertion easier. Make sure pad is inserted as far as it can go inside.

Then sew the sleeve end open end shut. Stitch the violet strap at the middle section of the pad photo 10; it is the lower, semi-finished shoulder strap.

Black lace panel cut out body x ray

And yes, you have to stitch through the pad. A high clearance presser foot sewing machine is ideal for this. Go slow and be careful so that the needle is not over bent while stitching or you’ll knock the “timing” off.

Tip: you may use your hand in turning the flywheel manual override instead of using the foot pedal motor to power the stitching. To finish the shoulder strap, insert the sternum strap adjuster and then the LL buckle.

Stitch the then doubled back violet strap at the “flap” end. Reinforce your stitches by making several passes at one line.